Wow, it’s so hard to believe that our adventures in Morocco are coming to a close. Time just flew by!!
After visiting the ancient Roman ruins in Volubilis and then stopping in Meknes for a fast food lunch we are on the road back to Casablanca.
We were sad to part ways with our amazingly knowledgeable guide Ghali. He headed back to his family and home from Meknes to Fes. Would actually recommend him to anyone visiting Morocco!
Morocco has been so much more than I ever imagined. Actually, I don’t know if I had any real expectations, but if I did, they’ve been far exceeded.
The people were so friendly and welcoming. The country was safe. The food was good. The hospitality was amazing! And the rich culture that is an amalgamation of all the peoples who have passed through this country was actually just so intriguing!
Seeing Morocco was like jumping into a Time Machine. Here we traveled back in time to hundreds of millions of years ago as we learned about the Mecca of fossils. We went back thousands of years as we learned about the indigenous peoples of the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, the Berbers/Amazigh (our driver Ali is from the Atlas Mountains). We stayed back thousands of years ago when the Roman Empire made its way to North Africa and flourished here until about 200 AD. The ruins—still cannot fathom that!! We visited Medinas and souks and cities going back to the 7th and 9th centuries. And we actually also experienced the post modern city of Fes (developed from 2000-2020).
As we drove around a very large part of the country it actually felt like we were traveling through different parts of the world. The ever changing topography of Morocco was continuously transporting us all around the world. One minute we were in California or Arizona, another minute we were in Spain/Italy/France and then we were in Switzerland and sometimes even back in Ireland/Scotland!!! And I can’t leave out all the times it looked/smelled/sounded like India too!! All around absolutely breathtaking vistas!!
I think this is one place that I’m actually feeling sad about leaving. I do believe I will be back again someday.
Photo dumping from the last few days, actually (IYKYK) in no particular order.
Souks in FesTorah in Synagoguein FesPalace door Fes—original, woodPalace door—new. brass; handcraftedSame Palace Ancient city of Fes9th Century FesType of honeysuckle Potters wheel—lead free clay locally sourced Freehand drawn designsPaints used for Fes pottery Before the kilnArtisans at workMosaic tile workSmall mosaic tiles chiseled by artisans Blind layered mosaic tiles to produce..The finished productGorgeous ceiling Weighing scale in museum MuseumProstheses for amputeesAlbum cover pose in FrsMoroccan lunchAfter meal fruitsMoroccan mint tea—National drink Early Psych Hospital Traditional dessert Jawhara with orange blossom Landscape Rainbow over Chefchaouen The Blue PearlFam-3 Chefchaouen Fam-4 Chefchaouen Street side vendor Street side vendor Lava rock ancient olive pressVolubilis ancient Roman ruins Volubilis Fam-3 at the ruins Fam-7 at the Ruins Original Roman Empire mosaic workBidding farewell to Ghali, our guideCat for sale!!Largest suspension bridge in Africa 1st Full Moon of 2026–wolf moon
…in Morocco. I didn’t realize the Roman Empire came as south as Volubilis, Morocco. This town was started in the 3rd century BC by indigenous Berber people and eventually flourished under Roman rule. It was abandoned in the 11th century AD. The site is still being excavated.
Examples of ceramic crafts lining a staircase Furniture and home decorative pieces for saleA stall selling dried fruits and nutsA person making fresh fluffy flat beadOlives are, of course, everywhereStreet sweet treatsNeed to sharpen your tools and knives? This is your guy. This shop is in an area that specializes in metal crafting.Meat market
On our arrival to The Blue Pearl, we were greeted with a full rainbow.
A little info about this Smurfiest of towns:
Chefchaouen, Morocco, is a picturesque mountain city famous for its blue-washed buildings, earning it the nickname “The Blue Pearl”. Founded in 1471, its distinctive blue color is attributed to Jewish refugees who settled there, symbolizing the sky and God, though other theories suggest it repels mosquitoes or keeps buildings cool. Visitors explore its labyrinthine medina, visit the Kasbah, hike in the Rif Mountains, and enjoy local handicrafts and cuisine in the main square, Outa el-Hammam. – Google Summary
A typical alleyway in the iconic blue. In some locations, local entrepreneurs would wait for unsuspecting tourists to come by to help take pictures for a nominal “contribution”.
A camel rests while we watched the sunrise.Dark Helmet ordered Jeet to comb the desert.Standing atop a dune after a stop during a dune buggy tour: Jeet, Duff, Simmi, G, and DT (not necessarily ordered as pictured). Guide is on the right.Having a great time!Fam-7 waiting for the sun to come up.One of two tents that housed us for two nights. Each has a full bathroom and generous beds for sleeping. Nights were cold but heavy blankets were enough to keep us warm. Surprisingly, the sand was not an inconvenient as feared. Very fine and dry, the sand could be swept by hand from clothes easily.
*I wrote this yesterday and forgot to post it when we got to the hotel my bad*
We spent the last two nights glamping in the Sahara desert. We arrived on Thursday evening where we were able to check in and enjoy dinner in a tent with music. After dinner we went out to a fire where we listened to the people who run the camp play traditional Berber music on the drums. After they finished, they distributed drums and let us play them. One worker, Mustafa had asked us if we knew any Bollywood songs and he started humming Teri Meri so we sang as much of that as we could. We then went to sleep in layers because our tents didn’t have heat and it was in the 40’s Fahrenheit.
The next morning we woke up early and went on a camel ride to climb some dunes and watch the sun rise. We watched the sunrise from the top of a dune and then took the camels back to the camp and chilled for a couple of hours. After lunch we went on a hike through the dunes and went sand boarding down some very steep sand dunes which was fun. We made our way back to the camp and then took a very interesting car ride to the village where we started our Dune Buggy adventure.
I said interesting car ride, why? Our driver would ride up the dunes as far as he could and then we would drift and slide back down the dunes. Can you imagine riding a camel through sand dunes and look over to see a Toyota 4Runner whipping up and down sand dunes blasting Tujh Mein Rab Dikhta Hai? Because that happened to some people. Apparently when people realize you’re Indian, they immediately play that song here.
We dune buggied where I drove alone, behind Dung Mama and Duff, and before Dad and Di. On our buggy’s gear shifter, drive is “H” which reminded me of the Simpsons clip where an Eastern European car salesman yells at homer to “Put it in H” (https://youtu.be/07vdtBMG4Kg?si=gqNBiJAVtnvPNL7H). After our dune buggy adventure where some kids temporarily stole our guides ATV, we rode back to the camp and had dinner before heading to bed. Dad also jumped off a sand dune (if I upload pictures from my camera before posting this I’ll add a pic of dad jumping). We woke up this morning, had breakfast, and are now on the road to Fes.
On the route to Fes, we stopped at a coffee shop to use the restroom and get coffee. While waiting for our coffee, the entertainer/barista/cashier at the shop offered me 500 camels in order for Simmi to work there. As I write this I realize that I should have accepted the offer. Imagine me with 500 camels. If I sell each one for a dollar I would be a millionaire. Or I could use them to conquer the state of Montana, what would they do, throw corn at me?
Maximus’ armor from Gladiator which had scenes shot in Morocco
Onions are a major crop of Guigou. They are stored in the winter in rows and rows of organized piles. They are then sold at premium prices. If you look closely at the covered rows you can see the onions!! (Got me to thinking about my plans for gardening this year!!)
Formerly called the Berbers, Amazigh (“free people”) inhabited the Maghreb region of North Africa dating back to prehistoric times—!!!!! They were able to avoid/resist Arabization when the Arabs invaded the region.
Despite extensive scientific research the exact origins of the Amazigh still have not been traced. Their language was originally only an oral language—-the written script came about in more recent times.
As described below they are known for their hospitality, which we experienced first hand with the Amazigh people in the pre-desert, desert, and post-desert stops.
Credit the internet:
Berbers (Imazighen) are the indigenous, pre-Arab peoples of North Africa, inhabiting the Maghreb(Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya) and beyond, known for their distinct languages (Tamazight) and unique culture, often called “free people” and maintaining rich traditions in art (like carpets and tattoos) and history, despite Arabization; they use the ancient Tifinagh script and are a significant part of North African demographics, with diverse lifestyles from nomadic to settled, and are known for their hospitality.
Who They Are
Indigenous People: Berbers, or Imazighen (meaning “free people”), are the original inhabitants of North Africa, predating Arab arrival.
Diverse Groups: They are not a single tribe but a collection of distinct groups, including Kabyle, Chaouis, and Tuareg.
Location & Population
Home Region: The vast North African region, from Morocco to Egypt, but concentrated in the Maghreb (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya).
Significant Presence: Largest populations are in Morocco and Algeria, with smaller groups in Mali, Niger, Libya, and diaspora in Europe.
Culture & Identity
Language: They speak Berber languages (Amazigh), part of the Afro-Asiatic family, using the ancient Tifinagh script.
Art & Craft: Known for intricate pottery, weaving (Berber carpets), tattooing, and unique designs reflecting tribal identity.
Lifestyle: Varying lifestyles, from nomadic to settled farmers, with strong traditions of hospitality.
Religion: Mostly Sunni Muslim, but with historical Christian and Jewish communities, often blending traditions.
History
Ancient Roots: Deep history, appearing in ancient Greek, Roman, and Egyptian texts, with rock art dating back thousands of years.
Name Origin: “Berber” comes from the Latin barbarus, while “Amazigh” means “free people,” a name they prefer.
Cultural Continuity: Maintained identity despite centuries of invasions (Phoenician, Roman, Arab), with recognition growing in the 21st century.
More interesting information about this ancient civilization.
(Credit: the internet)
Some Berbers have blonde hair
due to a complex mix of ancient migrations from Europe and the Middle East, genetic drift, and historical intermingling with various groups like Vandals, Romans, and Moors, resulting in indigenous traits appearing alongside lighter features, especially in specific tribes like the Riffians and Kabyles. While lighter hair and eyes are common in Northern Europe, similar traits also developed independently in North Africa through ancient ancestral connections and distinct genetic pathways.
Key Reasons for Blonde Berbers:
Ancient West Eurasian Ancestry:Migrations from West Asia (Near East) brought non-African genes into North Africa as early as 30,000 years ago, contributing to lighter features in Berber ancestors.
Prehistoric Cross-Mediterranean Links: Some theories suggest prehistoric movements of proto-Celtic or proto-Germanic peoples from Europe to North Africa, or vice versa, creating a genetic connection.
Vandal & Roman Influence: Germanic tribes like the Vandals and Romans conquered parts of North Africa, adding European genetic markers that persist today.
Genetic Drift & Local Adaptation:Blonde hair (and light skin/eyes) can arise from genetic variations (mutations in melanin genes) that are maintained in populations, sometimes favored by climate or historical isolation.
Population Mixing: Over centuries, Berbers mixed with Arabs and other groups, further diversifying their appearance, though the base genetic heritage remains distinct, notes SchoolNet South Africa.
Examples:
Tribes like the Ghomara, Riffians, and Kabyles are known for having members with European-like features, including blonde hair, blue eyes, and lighter skin.
In essence, the blonde features in some Berbers aren’t from a single source but a complex interplay of deep history, ancient migrations, and unique genetic adaptations within North Africa.
Continuing through Maghreb region of Morocco where Berber (preferred Amazighs=Free people) inhabit the area—we drive through the Switzerland of Morocco at an elevation of 7000 ft in the Middle Atlas Mountains.
Simmi did her obligatory TikTok dance while some of us made snowballs and pelted them at others (of course I didn’t do that!)
We’ve left the warm, sunny days and cold nights of the breathtaking Sahara desert dunes and are driving northeast through ever changing landscapes of Morocco on our way to Fez. Words and pictures do not do justice to the sites we’ve seen or the amazing experiences we’ve had or the hospitality we’ve felt.
A few glimpses….sunset, campfire with traditional Berber folk music, sunrise camel rides, exploring the dunes, sand boarding, dancing, jumping, dune buggy rides, more music/fire/dance, farewells, and then finally back into the High Atlas Mountains
On our way to Ouarzazate for a one-night stay before heading to a glamping experience in the Sahara, we stopped by this famous Kasbah, which appeared in some famous Hollywood films and TV series. Kasbah used to mean a secured compound to protect local leaders or wealthy locals. Now it can also mean luxurious homes.
Look down into the courtyard.Look up from the courtyard.
Presented as a wall hanging in the lobby of the AMANAR Ouarzazate Boutique Hôtel & SPA in Ouarzazate, Morocco, this rug’s design is striking. I had to stop and admire it.
Did you know Punjab, India, shares a unique feature in their public bathrooms with Morocco? If you’ve consumed this blog before, then you already know the answer: tall urinals!
I may have to pack a foldable step stool for my next international trip.
This is the courtyard of Dar el Bacha, a Palace in Old Marrakech. The fountain is the central point of the palace, which is now a museum. Among the plants and flowers in the courtyard are many bitter orange trees.
Our Stay in Marrakech Was in the Heart of the City, Which Meant No Cars or Vans Could Traverse the Small Streets and Alleyways. These Workers Served as “Bellhops” to Take Our Bags to Our House Rental. Here, We Were Leaving to Meet Up with Our Driver and Tour Guide.
Hassan II Mosque, One of the Biggest Mosques in the World. The Square Tower is Distinctive to Morocco Mosque Architecture, as Most Towers are Round.Inside the Mosque. There is A Floor Beneath Which Houses Many Fountains for Cleansing Before Prayers. Above in This Picture is a Sliding Roof to Let in Natural Light and Takes About 5 Minutes to Open.The Mosque Standing Mostly in Sea Water and Supported by Massive Concrete Pillars Was Built This Way to Emphasize Water’s Importance in Sustaining Life. Construction Began in 1986 and Took 7 Years to Complete.
On Dec 31 we will make our way to Merzouga to experience the Sahara Desert, taking a one night break in Ouarzazate where we will ring in the New Year. From there we will drive the next morning to Erg Chebbi —our desert luxury camp where we will spend 2 nights. We are still finalizing our desert activities, but will arrive at the camp grounds via 4×4 jeep, do sand boarding, desert sunset camel ride, desert sunrise, 4 hour tour of the area and local villages and their people, dune buggy adventures, dinner and traditional live music etc! I am soooo excited about this part of the trip!!!
A bit about Ouarzazate—
(Credit google search)
Ouarzazate is a city in south-central Morocco, known as the “Door of the Desert” and a major film-making hub with large studios and desert landscapes used for movies like Gladiator and Game of Thrones. It serves as a gateway to the Sahara and Draa Valley, featuring attractions like the UNESCO World Heritage site Aït Benhaddou, kasbahs, and the Noor solar power station. The city is a functional base for desert excursions, offering a mix of traditional culture and modern amenities.
Key features
Film industry: Home to Atlas Film Studios, it’s a popular location for international film and TV productions, with sets that can double for ancient Rome, Egypt, and other locations.
Gateway to the desert: A primary starting point for trips into the Draa Valley and the Sahara, with tours for camel riding and exploring dunes.
Historic sites: Features historic kasbahs like Taourirt and Tifoultoute, and the nearby Aït Benhaddou, a fortified village and UNESCO site.
Culture: A blend of Berber and Moroccan culture, with vibrant markets (souks) and a central square (Place Al-mouahidine) that comes alive at night.
A bit about Erg Chebbi
(Courtesy Wikipedia)
Erg Chebbi (Arabic: عرق الشبي) is one of Morocco‘s several ergs – large seas of dunes formed by wind-blown sand. It is located on the far western edge of the Sahara Desert.[1] There are several other ergs in Morocco, such as Erg Chigaganear M’hamid.
In places, the dunes of Erg Chebbi rise to 150 meters from the surrounding hamada (rocky desert) and altogether span an area of approximately 28 kilometers from north to south and 5–7 kilometers from east to west lining the Algerian border.[2]
The nearest sizable town is Erfoud, about 60 kilometers further north. One other city is Rissani, around 40 kilometers from Merzouga. Rissani was the site of a kingdom known as Sijilmassa, which became prosperous from the 8th to the 14th century due to its control of the caravan routes.
Although rainfall is not very common, in 2006 flooding adjacent to the dunes destroyed many buildings and killed three people.
Tuesday Dec 30 started with a traditional Moroccan breakfast prepared by personal chef Lubna in our Riad. What a feast she prepared for us!!!
The next Moroccan meal was at a Moroccan restaurant. The vegetable tagine, vegetable cous cous and orange soup were delicious!! Such a satisfying meal!!! Adding harissa made it all even tastier!!
Today (I’m not even sure what day it is anymore!!) was devoted to exploring the ancient city of Marrakech which dates back to the 7th/8th century. We learned about various architecture styles, how the ancients lived, studied and cultivated their crafts. We visited the local palace (where apparently the Prince was sighted!!). We were learned about local oils/spices—-and walked away with a bag full of ancient remedies purported to keep us youthful, beautiful/handsome and strong!! (Rena and I proved that we are definitely our mother’s daughters). We then learned about the ancient art of carpet weaving and how to differentiate the styles from different regions and peoples of Morocco—-here we were more our Father’s daughters and walked away empty handed!
Finally headed back to the Riad to freshen up for dinner which was at an Indian restaurant—Bombay Marrakech for a scrumptious dinner! We were pleasantly surprised by how amazing the food was!! The owner and chef has been operating this restaurant for the past 20 years!! The food was just sooo good!!
To close out the night, Rena, Jeet and I ventured out on our own in pursuit of some shopping. What a sweet shopkeeper where we made our purchases.
And now we’re back, to call it a night so we can be well rested for our next stop (Ouarzazate) en route to the Sahara desert!!
We spent a full day out in Marrakesh today. We were able to go to a Medersa which was essentially a dorm for students that studied at the nearby mosque. We then were able to go to a Moroccan restaurant for lunch where we got tagines, soups and couscous. After lunch we headed to a palace where the Governor of Marrakesh used to live. We walked through the palace that was built in 1920 and went to a famous coffee shop that is located in the palace’s courtyard called Bacha coffee. While walking through the markets on our way from one destination to another, someone started singing “Tujh Mein Rab Diktha Hai” from Rab Ne Bana Di Jodi at us, and I looked at him and finished the verse. He started laughing and we continued on our way. We went to an Indian restaurant for dinner, and as we were leaving lo and behold, the same song started playing.
I’m writing this from the rooftop of our Riad as the quiet of the night starts to lift. First the repeated “cock-a-doodle-doos”—then the chirping birds, voices of people talking, scooter horns beeping, cars driving by and now a hum of a city that is revving up to burst into frenetic action!
We experienced the city’s energy last night as we drove in from Casablanca. We were met first by a traffic jam that almost rivaled that of Indore’s jam last year!! Except this time we were in an 18-seater mini bus rather than in an open rickshaw 🛺!! Typical rush hour traffic was compounded by soccer fans from around the world who came to witness Morocco play against Zambia in the Africa Cup Tournament! (Morocco won 3-0).
Once we finally made it to the Medina, we had to travel by foot through the bustling souks and crowded maze-like narrow alleys to find our oasis. 13 pieces of luggage were carted through the chaos by 2 locals (such hard work!!)
Weaving through merchants, monkey acrobats, musicians, fresh fruit vendors, hawkers, legless beggar, cafes and restaurants, soccer fans and so much more we finally arrived at our Riad! What a lovely home!!
Already late for dinner, we took a quick minute to freshen up, made our way to dinner at an an Italian restaurant in the Four Seasons hotel. Dinner was delicious—-but service was sooo laid back and slow!! After nourishing ourselves it was time to tackle the traffic back to our Riad. And boy was there traffic—-the streets were full of jubilant fans who were proudly waving Moroccan flags from their cars in celebration of their victory. What a sight!!
Finally back at the Riad it was time to settle in for the night, reflect on the day and call it a night so we can start all over again the next day!!
I had always dreamt of visiting Morocco—-ever since I saw this country featured in a Smithsonian summer Folklife festival. I was mesmerized by a traditional dance performance—the sounds, colors, rhythms—-and it didn’t hurt that the men were oh so handsome!!! Finally a dream made true!!
This year our travels will take 7 of us all around Morocco (including 2 nights in the Sahara!) and 5 will continue onto Madrid for a few days. On our way to the airport – stay tuned for our adventures…..
Weather is tough to predict in Ireland and we had a private car to cliffs of moher and some other spots. Storm Amy was coming our way but our driver said we should be OK. We were driving in some rain and as we got closer to the cliffs we heard they would be closing around noon and major part of storm would be coming through at 2 pm. We were rushing to get a peak of the cliffs and move on. It was truly an adventure and the wind gusts were impressive. We saw some beautiful areas of the country and most importantly made it back safe!
Last day in Edinburgh we went into the Castle. Incredible history and beautiful views. This was built as a fort to protect the city and also has a prison and Castle where Mary of Scot lived. There was also the crown jewels of Scotland on display. At 1 pm they fire a cannon which alerted the ships at sea of the time.
Vegas-Style Presentation of Guinness Storehouse A Shell Picked from the South Dublin BayTrinity College LibrarySetting Sun on Ha’Penny Bridge in DublinA Coke by Any Other NameOften Cited, Seldom Sighted
Arrived in Dublin last night—in a small propeller jet where we were greeted with lots of rain.
But we were blessed with the best weather today for our guided walking tour of Dublin with an awesome guide Dave—a 4th generation Dubliner! Thank goodness we didn’t have to navigate stairs like we did in Edinburgh! This was followed by a trip to Trinity College and the Book of Kells Experience —unimaginable how the monks created this book and even more astonishing is how it remained so well preserved.
This was followed by a walk across the famous Ha’penny Bridge —Dublin’s first dedicated pedestrian bridge over the River Liffey, built in 1816. Toll to cross the bridge was a “half penny”—hence the name.
The day was rounded out with dinner at the Church Cafe/Bar/Restaurant with an amazing live performance of traditional Irish Music and Dance.
Here are a few pictures from the day. Starting with the secret garden on our hotel property and ending at the hotel and everything in between.
Propellor Airplane Secret GardenRandom city pics Ireland’s Declaration of Independence Dublin’s and Ireland’s first exclusively gay barMailbox—a reminder of the British rule The real impetus for our entire trip!!The book of Kells ExperienceEnjoying some gelato—energy break Ha’Penney BridgeAmazing talent!!!Time to call it a night!
Took a scenic train to Inverness in the Highlands in the early morning. Beautiful small city with a beautiful river in the center. Legends of the lochness monster. Spent a great day learning about Scottish history at MacGregors Pub. Spent the rest of the day walking around the river.
Sorry. We’ve been laxed in posting but here’s a quick rundown. We enjoyed a thorough self-guided tour of the Edinburgh castle. Overwhelming and impressive.
Then it was on to a quick lunch at Bertie’s World Famous Fish and Chips before hilling and heading to the airport.
We landed in rainy Dublin last night and were wiped out. The plan for today is to do a walking tour of various sites in the city, including Trinity College and other sites. We’ll post photos soon!
When everyone is still sleeping and you can’t, Edinburgh is a great city to walk around and enjoy beautiful views. Did the royal mile and Carlton Hill. It was a beautiful morning.
Airport security was a breeze and we all piled into a taxi where the driver was astonished by our amount of luggage. The accents are amazing and I think everyone hear will start singing a Nial Horan song! Air is crisp and refreshing and they drive on the wrong side of the road. Off to a fun start!
I have learned the meaning of this word all too much in the past two days. Indore is riddled with “jam” everywhere. Getting from point a to point b has become near impossible by car, auto, 2-wheeler and even foot.
Jams being caused by anticipated arrival of politicians, religious functions, construction…. Apparently the population of Indore when from 1,000,000 14 years ago to 4,000,000 today.
We have lost so much time sitting in traffic, making u-turns, purposefully going the wrong way against oncoming traffic, etc. It has been entertaining listening to our auto drivers screaming instructions to everyone.
This is not the Indore I remember. It’s too scary to walk on the roads – 7 of us walked single filed while dodging traffic yesterday. Note to future travelers – add 2 hours to every visit/errand you plan to do just for traffic.
Hard to believe our Nepal-India touring is done. Sadly we are leaving Goa for our last few days in Indore before heading home.
We have visited many places, seen many sights and met many incredible people along the way. People who have shown kindness, humility and graciousness in their own ways. People I hope to remember for many years.
I won’t forget the Soaltee Kathmandu dining staff who actually did a farewell for us before leaving – cake with a message wishing us a safe journey. The Soaltee Nagarkot staff who were so helpful in helping us get medical care.
In Amritsar, Chef Mani was very generous with his food knowledge. He also me the secret to his incredibly yummy Amritsari Chole. We are connected on WhatsApp and he’s offered to help with any food questions we have in the future. One of his staff members, Dipali, packed us fruits and snacks for our travels.
At the Golden Temple, I will remember the kind children who were asked to give up their spots for Jeet and me to do seva. They patiently waited and told me to take my time.
In Goa, we became friends with some of the servers – Debashish and Suraj in particular. At times, they work 20 days continuously without any time off. Both jokingly said they would come to the US and visit us. I said absolutely and gave them my phone number – I don’t think they expected that.
On the hotel beach, a group of ladies were selling fresh coconut water, other fruits and offering massages. We bought coconut water from them at 6 pm and they said it was their first sale of the day. Jeet and I told them we would be back. The next morning we walked to the beach and they saw us from far away and started waving. We bought 5 more coconuts from them and they were so thankful and happy to have made a sale in the morning.
All of our drivers and guides were so kind and generous with their time. Our last driver in Goa, Isaac, drove 20 minutes back to the Goa airport to deliver Simmi’s purse she left on our rented bus. He didn’t need to do that by any means, but he did it without any hesitation.
I won’t forget the lady simmi and I met in a street side shop selling clothes in Goa. We were chatting and she told us her daily routine. Very rigorous and no breaks – day starts at 7 am and goes on until 2 am. I didn’t bargain with her – as long as she continued to educate her children. She promised to and then told us all about her three children and their interests.
We meet so many people along the way in life – some leave a lasting impression. I am thankful to have met so many of those people on our journey.
View from house looking at driveway into access roadPretty sight along the drivewayBuilding blocks across from drivewayGagan posing for his new album cover of “Lost and Confused“, his first solo release in years. 95% discount if you use code AINTGOTACLUE.Tourists….you can spot ‘em from a mile, er, street away.
Interestingly (or amusingly) on our way home from the airport, I noticed this declarative sign in town. No, the city has not changed its name, but it does need a search-and-rescue for the missing letter, which also amusingly sounds like a segment on Sesame Street: Today’s show is brought to you by the letter, E.
We just got back to Delhi waiting for our connecting flight to Goa. While Delhi airport has had its share of challenges, I do appreciate the normal height of the men’s urinal stalls. Back in Punjab, all the native men are tall apparently as I had to tippy toed when using the “washroom”. Or apply physics by aiming at an angle greater than 30 degrees to employ the parabolic trajectory to safely land the stream of…well, you know.
A trip to India is not complete without the quintessential shopping experience where you sit on gaddis, have shopkeepers cover the entire surface with colorful clothing of intricate and delicate designs.
Rena and I have done this countless times—-and it’s been a blast every time. So glad that the kids and hubbies had a chance to have this experience as well. Everyone walked away with at least 2 new outfits/outfits to be stitched. One of my favorite elements has always been when the shopkeepers bring out the cold drinks, chai or coffee for you (they want you to get comfortable so you spend more money!!). We spent so much time there that we had to abort other shopping plans because the shops had closed!!
On our way to Amritsar—by road. At least an 8 hour journey. Super excited about the sites we will see along the way and for the chance to see the countryside. Sure will be a relief to get out of this suffocating fog/smog mix.
Feel sooooo bad for the people who actually live in this atmosphere. Hate to even think about the long term health effects and their shortened life expectancies.
At sunrise time Some improved visibility later in the morning On our “bus”The view ahead
The fog/smog is soooo thick that this is the view from our room. That’s not sky I took a pic of. It’s supposed to be the hotel grounds. Even getting the pic without reflection of my phone was not possible.
Delhi air at 7:15 am. See bottom right where the ledge is visible.
Cancelled flight. Going in circles around this huge a** airport to get luggage, new flights etc. If we get an early morning flight, that too may end up with cancellation issues again due to visibility problems. Let’s see what magic Rena and Gagan have up their sleeves!
This one really brings back memories from previous India trips!!
Flight was delayed from Nepal to Delhi. Now, just found out that flight to Amritsar is cancelled tonight because of visibility concerns in Amritsar. Heading to domestic baggage to retrieve our checked bags. Trying to figure out next steps!!
(LITERALLY going from one and of the airport to the other!! AND no people mover in this direction!).
Now that we got through the serious part our Nagarkot stay, it’s time to focus on the real reason we came to Nagarkot.
Nagarkot is a remote area, at an elevation of 6000-7100 ft!! Approximately 35-45 kilometers from Kathmandu, passing through Bhaktapur. After leaving Bhaktapur we started the ascent up the mountains. The roads got narrower and bumpier the higher we went. Neither words nor pictures can do justice to what we all were blessed enough to witness in this lifetime.
Not only were we surrounded by nature’s majesty, but we also breathed air that was amazingly cool, fresh, and crisp. The hotel grounds were also beautiful, with gorgeous views of the mountains from our cottage’s picture window. A daring person may even choose to enjoy the views from the infinity pool on site—mind you, NOT a heated pool!! Or take advantage of the spa—as did Duffy, for his first ever massage, which was apparently an experience of its own!
As expected, the hospitality and service left nothing to be desired. The food was good, but less variety for the vegetarians in the group. It was more of a Chinese influenced menu. Not sure if it was because of the region, or because of the large group of Chinese tourists who also checked in the same night—that’s what a staff member alluded to.
As I mentioned, Nagarkot is quite remote. The people of this area are known as Tamang people . The language they speak is different than what’s spoken in Kathmandu. The facial features are also more East Asian. (Duff felt like he blended in here more than in Kathmandu and even more than in India). They are described as being a self-sufficient group. They grow all that they consume—produce and meat. And hence do not have a reason to leave the area. We saw many tiered farms. The people here are said to be wealthier than people of Kathmandu—because of all the land that they own. Here also, most families do want to send their children for education—something else we may take for granted back in the states—but some may not have the means.
Aside from the views and the general energy, one of the most memorable times I had here was when all 7 of us shared our thoughts and experiences of Nepal and what really made a strong impression on us, and what we will bring back with us to implement in our daily lives. So much bonding!! This is exactly what I wanted out of this trip for us all!
Nagarkot Photo Dump—in no particular order. Effects on the mountains of sunset and sunrise were captured. (Pics Will come when I have better connection)
Flight to Amritsar cancelled! Our correspondents say it is likely because of low visibility in Amritsar and the family is scrambling to resolve this issue. More news coming soon.
Update! After walking to security from gate 60 we received permission to pick up our bags… from gate 60 so we went back and… went back to baggage claim! We traveled roughly 2 miles according to google earth. We are currently waiting for mother to sort out a hotel and our upcoming travel to Amritsar.
Breathtaking and surreal views like never seen before—only way to describe this place. The air was crisp, clean (and of course very thin!) and so fresh at an altitude of nearly 6000 ft. Most of us did experience some symptoms of adjusting to the higher altitude, some more than others. Almost to the point of seeking medical care, but thankfully some hydration, chicken broth, rest and meds helped reduce the symptoms.
BUT, that doesn’t mean we didn’t have to seek medical attention for other reasons—and frankly speaking, the inciting incident had us all freaked out.
It all started when we decided that all of us would try and cross a 200+ meter long suspension bridge known as Rani Ka Jhoola. Once parked, one must go down a gravelly/rocky dirt road to get to the bridge. It’s a fairly steep downhill to get there. We had barely advance 15-20 ft when BAM!! Rena lost footing and slipped—landing on the right knee! (Those damn knees are taking a beating!!) Unfortunately, a decent sized rock decided it was going to put a nice gash in Ree’s knee! The whole gang banded together. One got my first aid supplies that I packed, another got the driver’s first aid kit. Someone else got a fresh bottle of water. And someone else helped Ree lay down and get as comfortable as possible (definitely didn’t need her OR anyone to faint!) while others chanted Navkar mantra with her.
My assistant (DT) helped as I assessed, cleansed, and dressed her wound while I was weighing our options on next steps and how to get her appropriate medical care in this foreign, remote place. Thankfully her joint seemed unaffected and she was able to get up with assistance and walk. And the injury was far from life threatening. So, those were all definite positives.
Needless to say, nobody traversed Rani Ka Jhula. Instead, we headed back to the hotel and asked the staff where we could get medical attention. They suggested we go to a clinic about 3 km further up. Once a plan was put in place and things were stable, we all took some time to feed ourselves and watch the sunset and witness a breathtaking sight.
During this time however, DT was not able to fully take in these sights as he was plagued with symptoms of altitude sickness—headache, weakness, body aches, tachycardia, GI symptoms etc. He was feeling so bad and weak we had to constantly remind and urge him to eat. Thankfully he had some improvement, and managed to get back to the room and rest while I went with Ree to the clinic.
After the sunset, Rena, Gagan a local driver took us to the clinic. Despite the situation, we were able to take in some amazing views on the way up…terrifyingly close to the edge of the rocky, bumpy road!!
Finally, we got there and informed the 2 ladies behind the counter why we were there. I showed them pictures of the wound. They quickly called the “doctor”. While we waited for him, they took us back to the exam room….wow. It was both terrifying and humbling at the same time. We talk and complain about the US health system being broken—but at least we have a health system and basic hygiene!!
One of the ladies came in the room, pulled out a syringe to draw up some lidocaine in preparation for suturing. Disinfecting the bottle was not about to take place until I asked for it. And what was the disinfectant?? It was a hazy liquid inside of a dusty, dented bottle labeled “75% sanitizer”. As I questioned that, she reassured me it actually contained “spirit” (ie alcohol) in it. Ok. Being in the spiritual land of Nepal, I had no other choice but to muster up faith and to believe. (All the while thinking—“why didn’t I bring our own supplies here?!”)
A few minutes later, a gentleman arrived by motorcycle. Very kind person. Turns out he wasn’t a physician. Rather, he was a pharmacist and and H.A. (Not sure what that is)…oh boy….and not to mention language barrier…. The 3 of us looked at each other and quietly decided that we would not allow any suturing to take place here!
The pharmacist examined the area in question. Assessed her knee for possible internal injuries. And kept repeating “it’s normal” “it’s ok” and I can’t recall what else. But the gist was that it’s not so bad. He and I cleansed the injury with betadine and bandaged her back up. We paid him his fees and graciously took our leave as we made plans to go to a well known hospital—DRIM— of Bhaktapur in the morning before going to the airport.
DRIM hospital (read about Dr. Iwamura—https://www.iwamurahospital.com/overview/) is a privately run hospital. Dr. Binod took a brief history, formulated his plan, wrote us orders and supplies. Gagan went to register Rena and I went to the pharmacy next door and brought back supplies. Thankfully except for some foreign debris that needed to be washed out, all else was straight forward. Rena did end up getting a few stitches. We pooled together our remaining Nepali rupees for the fees. As we profusely thanked Dr. Binod for his care and compassion we walked out with a sigh of relief as well as some souvenirs (X-rays, doctors orders and notes…).
Did I mention how amazing Dr. Binod was?!
This whole experience was eye opening—we already knew about differences in healthcare and availability compared to the USA. But to live it firsthand definitely puts things in real perspective. It reminds us of how fragile life is, and that not everyone has access to medical care in a timely fashion when needed. Thankfully this was not life threatening. I can’t even begin to imagine what the locals go through to get even to most basic of care. I’m also super thankful for the doctors who responded with recommendations and reassurances to my FB post on the Physicians Community page. One even offered to contact his orthopedic friend!
I do believe everything happens for a reason. And in this case, had we made it to Rani Ka Jhoola, I think we would’ve had a much more serious situation with DT and altitude sickness. So Ree, thanks for taking one for the team!!!
But Fam-7, let me be clear now, no more injuries or anything else—this doctor would also like to be on vacation too! 😉 (seriously—-ALWAYS here at your service, day or night, on the ground, or 30,000 ft in the air!). Love you all—just be well and healthy.
(Fyi—out of respect for weak stomachs, I am leaving out gory pics—-if interested, I will show you in person).
At the clinic—after it was cleaned Gagan there for Rena (I was honestly worried about him passing out and having another situation to deal with!!)Another Angle After DRIM hospital today. That’s some cool dressing he used!! (They let me keep what was not used)“Souvenirs”
Off to Thamel today for last minute shopping for early risers. Then heading to Nagarkot in the hopes of seeing the peaks of the Himalayas as well as the sunrise tomorrow morning before returning to Kathmandu for travel to Amritsar.
Words that come to mind when I think about my experience in Nepal these 2 days.
Hospitality beyond expectation—whether it is from the hotel staff, our amazing guide, the driver, restaurant staff, shopkeepers or countless others—so much positive energy, that one cannot help but return that positivity to the universe. The standard greeting is Namaste.
Hospitality: Greetings from our driver upon our arrival Greetings from our driver upon our arrivalGreetings from our driver upon our arrival
Energy—the energy here is permeated with positivity. One forgets negative thoughts and feelings.
Spirituality—centuries old Hindu temples and Buddhist stupas are found throughout the region along with the many followers. One will experience the frenetic energy of the Hindu temples and the calm and peace of the Buddhist temples. Either way, presence of a higher energy is inescapable. I was especially moved when we were blessed enough to experience the prayers and chanting by Buddhist monks.
Prayer flags Prayer wheelsLady praying at steps of a templeMonks chanting—-surreal and otherworldly experience Lighting candles on Jan 1 as an offering—blessings for the New Year
History—rich ancient history throughout this region (Kathmandu). The juxtaposition of ancient buildings alongside modernization. The history of Nepal has led it to become a melting pot of cultures which coexist in harmony. As a result of the influence and migration of Indians, Chinese, Aryans, Persian, Europeans and more, the natives of Nepal (Newars) are now in minority. The people of Nepal have features and appearances that are as varied as the nations that have influenced the country. The food is also reflective of this melting pot. Nepal is believed to have the best momos of all.
Momos—-soy sauce is not a typical condiment here. Seven story temple
Equality/Respect—Nepalis worship goddesses first and foremost. Hence, women/females are highly regarded in society, and are considered the stronger and more important sex—51% vs 49%. As a result, it is a very safe nation for girls and women. Females will also be found in every line of work—military, police, flight pilots, doctors, teachers, etc. A dowry system is non-existent. All girls are sent to school for education.
Organized Chaos—crowds, traffic, animals are found throughout. Yet, it is not a nervous energy—everyone finds a way to effortlessly weave in/out to get from point A to point B. The laws in place contribute to this organized chaos—unnecessary horn blowing is against the law. As is driving faster than 55 km/hr. All drivers of 2 wheelers must wear a helmet (not sure why the passengers are not required to).
Beauty—natural beauty surrounds the area (unfortunately pollution obscures the view). Beauty of the history and ancient architecture. Beauty of the people.
What a full day! Nepal is truly a gem in many ways. Our guide called Nepal a melting pot – and it really is. There are descendants from the natives or “Newar”, China, India, Tibet and more. There are distinct facial features of different lineage.
We’ve noticed Nepali people are very modest and friendly all around. The rich and not-so-rich live in the same areas. Women are highly regarded and considered equals (or as our guide said, women importance is 51% and male is 49% 😊) – thus making women safe and comfortable overall.
Juxtapositions are everywhere! Ancient history blended in with modern day amenities all around. At one second we are crossing a traffic filled road lined with all types of shops, and the next, we walk into an ancient stupa or temple.
One of the most interesting things I have learned is how earthquakes have hit Nepal regularly throughout history. Many of the sites we have seen have been partially destroyed by various earthquakes at some point or the other. Countries around the world have helped restore specific structures. Norway, Austria, Tibet are some of these countries.
Wishing everyone a very happy, healthy and peaceful 2025! Here are some pictures from my camera:
A wonderful day to a wonderful night! So happy Gagan was able to come back to Kathmandu finally and show us his old stomping grounds. Watching Gagan take it all in made my day.
We had a nice rooftop dinner (brrrr) and came back to the hotel to find live music under the stars. The singer was amazing and seemed to know my playlist because he sang all of my favorites.
If you look carefully, you can see the snowy peak of the Himalayas in one of the pics.
I’ve been a bit lax in blogging, so it’s time to do a dump!
What a whirlwind week it has been!! 40 hour journey from Silver Spring to Indore via London and Delhi, with a trip out into London during a 12 hour layover.
Indore—days 1-4/5
So much love and gracious hospitality from numerous relatives filled our 4-5 days in Indore. (And scrumptious food OVER-filled our stomachs!!). It was so charming how DT quickly learned the tradition of manvar—which is an expression of hospitality and love in the form of offering food, feeding others. And so heartwarming to see the kids’ faces every time they discovered something new. The food is as expected—scrumptious!! Making up for 14 years of missing out (unfortunately the waistline is proof!!).
Samosas Jalebis YUM!More scrumptious food and amazing family time
(Somehow I earned the duty of morning chai for the gang—the first day I made chai 5-6 times!!! But I’m a quick learner, and started making at least 10 cups at once—-with my signature masala turmeric, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, LOTS of ginger, and now also Vimla Bhua’s chai masala! YUM!)
Morning Chai—-breakfast round ONE!!
Now, one cannot come to India and not shop—at least I can’t! But shopping in India has been transformed from 14 years ago!! High end malls with designer labels and brand names and so much more as we experienced in Phoenix Citadel Mall. Then the countless shops on the roadsides! Such a dizzying array of shops! Thankfully, we managed to get a good start on the shopping already—but still so much more to buy!!
Phoenix citadel
Aside from the obvious changes in infrastructure, shops, cleanliness and modernization seen in Indore, the most striking change is the traffic. It reminds of the traffic we’d seen in Mumbai decades ago—-Indore is definitely living up to its title of “Little Bombay/Mumbai”
Indore to Nepal—day 5
We set off from Indore to Kathmandu via Delhi on an early morning flight. I slept only 1.5 hrs the night before!which is why I struggled when we had to gate hop for our flight—like 3 times—from one end to the other! Apparently here (and actually in London too), departure gates are constantly changing—depending on where there’s space for the plane to pull up). But finally made it aboard. First plane (Vistara) was nice—phone/tablet holder at every seat, free WiFi, great service.
Days 4/5-7–NEPAL—-(please see blog post Days 1,2 Nepal—Nikki’s perspective)
I peeled an insane amount of oranges (Santra). Some were green on the outside but were ripe which I found weird. Dad and I were laughing at the pop tart bowl on twitter (not X). I’m on my first coffee and first chai of the day while I eat enough to please everyone while waiting for the second course of breakfast.
According to one visitor to Indore from the US, eating a laddu, a type of Indian sweets, can get stuck to the esophagus if eaten without regard to chewing, i.e., swallowing whole. The visitor said he experienced this first hand from eating a laddu given to him by a relative and has been careful ingesting the sweet treat ever since. Scarred from the experience is not how he would describe it, but he says being cautious is prudent.
And how has his visit to Indore changed his perception of laddus? “The sweets here in Indore are phenomenal,” says the visitor who is on his second visit to India. “As for the laddus, they are so easy to eat even if I don’t pace myself! But I will have to resume my vigilance once I’m back in the States, especially in places like Irvine, CA.” When asked to elaborate on this comment, the visitor politely declined to expound further.
15 min delay (so far) for the final flight from Delhi to Indore. Everyone is tired. Some are getting goofy and delirious. Others might be irritable or zoned out.
Finally on board (after a long 12 hour layover!) the second leg of our journey to India/Indore. 8hr, 8min—-hoping to get some sleep!! Or at least watch some movies.
The moment finally came…we are aboard flight 22 en route to India via London….after a gap of almost 14 years!!!! That’s the longest I’ve gone between trips to the motherland.
It was such a joy watching Duffy as he discovered the perks of premium economy—such wonderment and surprise!! Warmed my heart! (Little does he realize this is NOT the norm!) Let me not forget to mention his dad when he saw “festive baked salmon” on the menu.
As for me…it’s now just really sinking in that I’m heading to India. The first time in my life visiting without the parents—either one of them. The tears are hard to fight back as I write this….
But now it’s our turn to show the kids the beauty, intrigue, sights and smells of the place of their grandparents and ancestors. And maybe, just maybe, they too will finally understand why I always say “oh! It smells just like India!” or “this reminds me so much of India!” or “it feels just like India!” That is my hope, that they come back with a special place in their heart for our Beautiful India.
Little joys in lifeLike father, like son And me practicing my selfie technique
Thanks Duff for being a great travel partner as we walked the streets of London and hit the major tourist sites—Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Square, China Town, London Eye, Chinatown!
Now to find a place to get some zzzzz’s …..
Buckingham PalaceBig BenDumplings in Chinatown (too exhausted to practice my chopsticks skills!!!)Obligatory red phone booth picLondon Eye—from afar Now we’re in their country
Tried to have a drink—gin and tonic. Had a sip or two before turning around with drink in hand to give it to Ree for a taste. Then BAM! I knocked the FULL glass and emptied its contents all over me and the seat! Thanks for DT’s packaged blanket that diverted a lot of the libations away from me. And thank goodness, that my outermost layer (4 of 4) soaked up most of it!
(Oh, did I mention the ice chips I kept fishing out from my seat?!)
I’m too scared to try again…especially in my sleep deprived state….
1 hour before we board! Reality still hasn’t set in entirely. It’s been so long since we have travelled like this – packing for India, long long flights, long layovers, 30+ hours to reach our first destination….. so much has changed and so much hasn’t.
Gagan and Jeet are most concerned about being able to stream the Steelers game on the flight (I don’t think it’s gonna happen! 😬)
