Good morning and Happy New Year.
Off to Thamel today for last minute shopping for early risers. Then heading to Nagarkot in the hopes of seeing the peaks of the Himalayas as well as the sunrise tomorrow morning before returning to Kathmandu for travel to Amritsar.
Words that come to mind when I think about my experience in Nepal these 2 days.
Hospitality beyond expectation—whether it is from the hotel staff, our amazing guide, the driver, restaurant staff, shopkeepers or countless others—so much positive energy, that one cannot help but return that positivity to the universe. The standard greeting is Namaste.
Energy—the energy here is permeated with positivity. One forgets negative thoughts and feelings.
Spirituality—centuries old Hindu temples and Buddhist stupas are found throughout the region along with the many followers. One will experience the frenetic energy of the Hindu temples and the calm and peace of the Buddhist temples. Either way, presence of a higher energy is inescapable. I was especially moved when we were blessed enough to experience the prayers and chanting by Buddhist monks.
History—rich ancient history throughout this region (Kathmandu). The juxtaposition of ancient buildings alongside modernization. The history of Nepal has led it to become a melting pot of cultures which coexist in harmony. As a result of the influence and migration of Indians, Chinese, Aryans, Persian, Europeans and more, the natives of Nepal (Newars) are now in minority. The people of Nepal have features and appearances that are as varied as the nations that have influenced the country. The food is also reflective of this melting pot. Nepal is believed to have the best momos of all.
Equality/Respect—Nepalis worship goddesses first and foremost. Hence, women/females are highly regarded in society, and are considered the stronger and more important sex—51% vs 49%. As a result, it is a very safe nation for girls and women. Females will also be found in every line of work—military, police, flight pilots, doctors, teachers, etc. A dowry system is non-existent. All girls are sent to school for education.
Organized Chaos—crowds, traffic, animals are found throughout. Yet, it is not a nervous energy—everyone finds a way to effortlessly weave in/out to get from point A to point B. The laws in place contribute to this organized chaos—unnecessary horn blowing is against the law. As is driving faster than 55 km/hr. All drivers of 2 wheelers must wear a helmet (not sure why the passengers are not required to).
Beauty—natural beauty surrounds the area (unfortunately pollution obscures the view). Beauty of the history and ancient architecture. Beauty of the people.
Monkey as seen in Lalitpur Durbar square! It was climbing on power lines before sitting here.
This is a wood carving of a Hindu deity (I don’t know which) dating back to the first century AD (if I remember correctly). This was in the palace at Lalitpur Durbar Square.
This is one of the oldest temples in Nepal at Lalitpur Durbar square
Some guy
Prayer flags at Boudhnath Stupa. Taken slightly before a pigeon pooped on mom.
Prayer flags on a motorcycle in Boudhnath
A master of the Thanka art form painting on canvas
What a full day! Nepal is truly a gem in many ways. Our guide called Nepal a melting pot – and it really is. There are descendants from the natives or “Newar”, China, India, Tibet and more. There are distinct facial features of different lineage.
We’ve noticed Nepali people are very modest and friendly all around. The rich and not-so-rich live in the same areas. Women are highly regarded and considered equals (or as our guide said, women importance is 51% and male is 49% 😊) – thus making women safe and comfortable overall.
Juxtapositions are everywhere! Ancient history blended in with modern day amenities all around. At one second we are crossing a traffic filled road lined with all types of shops, and the next, we walk into an ancient stupa or temple.
One of the most interesting things I have learned is how earthquakes have hit Nepal regularly throughout history. Many of the sites we have seen have been partially destroyed by various earthquakes at some point or the other. Countries around the world have helped restore specific structures. Norway, Austria, Tibet are some of these countries.
Wishing everyone a very happy, healthy and peaceful 2025! Here are some pictures from my camera:
Wow. What a day. Began with a solid buffet breakfast at the hotel and then we were off to Pashupathinath temple, one of Hinduisms’s most sacred ancient temples on the outskirts of the city.
That was followed by Boudhnath, one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the center of the city, where we also enjoyed an amazing lunch and a tour of an art gallery and the practice of thangka painting.
Then it was off to the neighboring town of Patan’s Durbar Square, the site of ancient temples with scriptures dating back to 182 AD.
And back to the hotel for New Year’s Eve celebrations. Whew!
(New image format! Swipe right or left to see all the images in the gallery.)
Here are some pics of the medieval royal palace where the Malla Kings of Lalitpur resided.
A wonderful day to a wonderful night! So happy Gagan was able to come back to Kathmandu finally and show us his old stomping grounds. Watching Gagan take it all in made my day.
We had a nice rooftop dinner (brrrr) and came back to the hotel to find live music under the stars. The singer was amazing and seemed to know my playlist because he sang all of my favorites.
If you look carefully, you can see the snowy peak of the Himalayas in one of the pics.
You have to do at least two of three things when you visit my new establishment: dance, drink or get a tattoo. House rules.
Breathtaking beauty from the sky…
Here’s a selfie at Bhua’s dining table.
The Commanders are stalling our transfer to the flight to Kathmandu 😂
And we’re back to foggy Delhi for a little layover on our way to Kathmandu.
I’ve been a bit lax in blogging, so it’s time to do a dump!
What a whirlwind week it has been!! 40 hour journey from Silver Spring to Indore via London and Delhi, with a trip out into London during a 12 hour layover.
Indore—days 1-4/5
So much love and gracious hospitality from numerous relatives filled our 4-5 days in Indore. (And scrumptious food OVER-filled our stomachs!!). It was so charming how DT quickly learned the tradition of manvar—which is an expression of hospitality and love in the form of offering food, feeding others. And so heartwarming to see the kids’ faces every time they discovered something new. The food is as expected—scrumptious!! Making up for 14 years of missing out (unfortunately the waistline is proof!!).
(Somehow I earned the duty of morning chai for the gang—the first day I made chai 5-6 times!!! But I’m a quick learner, and started making at least 10 cups at once—-with my signature masala turmeric, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, LOTS of ginger, and now also Vimla Bhua’s chai masala! YUM!)
Now, one cannot come to India and not shop—at least I can’t! But shopping in India has been transformed from 14 years ago!! High end malls with designer labels and brand names and so much more as we experienced in Phoenix Citadel Mall. Then the countless shops on the roadsides! Such a dizzying array of shops! Thankfully, we managed to get a good start on the shopping already—but still so much more to buy!!
Aside from the obvious changes in infrastructure, shops, cleanliness and modernization seen in Indore, the most striking change is the traffic. It reminds of the traffic we’d seen in Mumbai decades ago—-Indore is definitely living up to its title of “Little Bombay/Mumbai”
Indore to Nepal—day 5
We set off from Indore to Kathmandu via Delhi on an early morning flight. I slept only 1.5 hrs the night before!which is why I struggled when we had to gate hop for our flight—like 3 times—from one end to the other! Apparently here (and actually in London too), departure gates are constantly changing—depending on where there’s space for the plane to pull up). But finally made it aboard. First plane (Vistara) was nice—phone/tablet holder at every seat, free WiFi, great service.
Days 4/5-7–NEPAL—-(please see blog post Days 1,2 Nepal—Nikki’s perspective)
What an experience! Went to Phoenix mall and it did not disappoint. This mall is supposed to be the best in all of MP. So many international stores and restaurants. Lots of name brands from India as well.
Waited 14 long years to have the Haldiram chili potatoes – just as good as I remembered!
I peeled an insane amount of oranges (Santra). Some were green on the outside but were ripe which I found weird. Dad and I were laughing at the pop tart bowl on twitter (not X). I’m on my first coffee and first chai of the day while I eat enough to please everyone while waiting for the second course of breakfast.
Relaxing and chill start to the day with chai while listening to the rain 🙂 Apparently having 2 rounds of breakfast everyday is something I need to get used to now – chai and toast first, then something else a little bit after (my stomach is going to explode). But not complaining, can’t be an Indore trip without jalebi!
According to one visitor to Indore from the US, eating a laddu, a type of Indian sweets, can get stuck to the esophagus if eaten without regard to chewing, i.e., swallowing whole. The visitor said he experienced this first hand from eating a laddu given to him by a relative and has been careful ingesting the sweet treat ever since. Scarred from the experience is not how he would describe it, but he says being cautious is prudent.
And how has his visit to Indore changed his perception of laddus? “The sweets here in Indore are phenomenal,” says the visitor who is on his second visit to India. “As for the laddus, they are so easy to eat even if I don’t pace myself! But I will have to resume my vigilance once I’m back in the States, especially in places like Irvine, CA.” When asked to elaborate on this comment, the visitor politely declined to expound further.
Although we’re half way around the world, being able to look up or do things on the cell phone that I would normally do at home is satisfying and awe-inspiring at the same time. The world may have shrunk by air travel, but home is everywhere with the computer in your hand.
…because we’re eating two breakfasts, including jalebis and samosas. And heading out soon to eat more lunch. Imma need to climb Everest to drop these pounds.
Most of us got a solid night’s sleep, which was SO needed and are spending the day visiting family and eating WAY too much. What we thought was breakfast (toast, chai) was actually an appetizer. And two hours later, we enjoyed an amazing lunch.
And while waiting to leave, we had a fun photo session outside the house.
After more than 40 hours, we reached home. Everyone struggled but managed to stay awake until tonight. Pics from Indore airport:
Boarded and ready to fly to Indore – finally!
15 min delay (so far) for the final flight from Delhi to Indore. Everyone is tired. Some are getting goofy and delirious. Others might be irritable or zoned out.
We lost Duffy (out of frame), Simmi has lost her mind, and Jeet is even more fed up than the first picture 👍🏽
Glad we were able to land. Now let’s hope we’re able to take off. 😬
After a 12 hour layover in London (and crashing in the AmEx Lounge), we are boarded for Delhi! It has been 23 hours since we left silver spring. Still have an 8 hr flight, 5 hours layover and another 2 hour flight…..
Finally on board (after a long 12 hour layover!) the second leg of our journey to India/Indore. 8hr, 8min—-hoping to get some sleep!! Or at least watch some movies.
The moment finally came…we are aboard flight 22 en route to India via London….after a gap of almost 14 years!!!! That’s the longest I’ve gone between trips to the motherland.
It was such a joy watching Duffy as he discovered the perks of premium economy—such wonderment and surprise!! Warmed my heart! (Little does he realize this is NOT the norm!) Let me not forget to mention his dad when he saw “festive baked salmon” on the menu.
As for me…it’s now just really sinking in that I’m heading to India. The first time in my life visiting without the parents—either one of them. The tears are hard to fight back as I write this….
But now it’s our turn to show the kids the beauty, intrigue, sights and smells of the place of their grandparents and ancestors. And maybe, just maybe, they too will finally understand why I always say “oh! It smells just like India!” or “this reminds me so much of India!” or “it feels just like India!” That is my hope, that they come back with a special place in their heart for our Beautiful India.
Thanks Duff for being a great travel partner as we walked the streets of London and hit the major tourist sites—Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Square, China Town, London Eye, Chinatown!
Now to find a place to get some zzzzz’s …..
Spilled salt this time by being dumb (in case you couldn’t tell this is simmi)
Was curious as to how the very cute plane salt and pepper shakers work, and ended up sprinkling salt all over me, my seat and my clothes 😐
Merry Christmas from London!!
Tried to have a drink—gin and tonic. Had a sip or two before turning around with drink in hand to give it to Ree for a taste. Then BAM! I knocked the FULL glass and emptied its contents all over me and the seat! Thanks for DT’s packaged blanket that diverted a lot of the libations away from me. And thank goodness, that my outermost layer (4 of 4) soaked up most of it!
(Oh, did I mention the ice chips I kept fishing out from my seat?!)
I’m too scared to try again…especially in my sleep deprived state….
Zzzzzzz…..
WordPress/blog tool lessons at the gate.
1 hour before we board! Reality still hasn’t set in entirely. It’s been so long since we have travelled like this – packing for India, long long flights, long layovers, 30+ hours to reach our first destination….. so much has changed and so much hasn’t.
Gagan and Jeet are most concerned about being able to stream the Steelers game on the flight (I don’t think it’s gonna happen! 😬)
Duff, Simmi, Nikki, and Jeet are all waiting at Dulles for Rena, Gagan, and Dung to be dropped off by Manu Nana. We were dropped off with the luggage and are sitting with 4 full carts of luggage
-Jeet
Over a decade ago, we traveled with a modest collection of gadgets. Now? We’ve got Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs looking over our stuff!
It’s been 14 years since any of us (Ree, Sim, Jeet, Duff, Nik, DT, Gee) have been to India, but due to various life circumstances, this seems like the perfect time to go. While we will have some time with family, a bulk of this trip is about exploring new destinations and revisiting special places. We’ll try to journal our daily adventures here (Internet access willing) and hope you enjoy following along.
Our rough itinerary is made up of a 12-hour stop in London on Christmas Day (we’re hoping at least a handful of Indian and Chinese restaurants will be open…lol). Then to Delhi and straight to Indore, Madhya Pradesh, which will be our “home base” to acclimate and see family.
Then it’s off to Kathmandu, Nepal! We’ll be staying at the Soaltee, the very same hotel where my parents worked. Can’t wait for that! Lots of sightseeing, a day trip to Nagarkot, a hill station that’s a couple of hours outside the Kathmandu valley, from which you’re supposed to see up to eight of the top Himalayan peaks on a clear day.
After that, it’s on to Amritsar, Punjab to visit the Golden Temple, one of Sikhism’s holiest shrines. Only Ree and I have been there before, so I can’t wait for everyone else to experience it. The utter peace and solace that pervades your being when you enter the doors is something I wish everyone could experience. We’ll also try to visit some other area destinations, including the Partition Museum, the India-Pakistan border, where they have a daily changing of the guard ceremony that is supposed to be a sight to behold.
From Amritsar, it’s back to Delhi and an overnight trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal, which we’ve all been to before but the kids were much younger the last time.
Then it’s on to Goa, which is a famous beach city with its own vibrant culture and aesthetic, influenced heavily by the Portuguese. It’s the perfect place to disconnect after several intense days of travel.
We’re back to Indore for a couple of days after that, and then fly back home via London from Bengaluru.
Whew! I’m tired just thinking about all of this, but also really excited. It’s been a challenging year on many fronts for all of us, and we couldn’t think of a better way to reconnect, explore and create new memories, many of which we hope to catalog here.
Hope you enjoy!
